Fair Impressions: Roksanda Ilinčić at Frieze Masters
The fashion designer discovers the visionary works of glass artist Laura de Santillana
The fashion designer discovers the visionary works of glass artist Laura de Santillana
This is the first time that I'm seeing the work of Laura de Santillana (1955–2019), which is being shown with Ippodo gallery at Frieze Masters. What particularly caught my eye is their beautiful transparency and translucency, but also the artist’s modern and subtly feminine touch to something that otherwise could seem quite cold.
I learned that de Santillana was a granddaughter of the famous Paolo Venini and grew up surrounded by the craft of glass in Venice and all those famous glassmaking recipes that we know are kept as a big secret. And you can see that that kind of upbringing has resulted in the most beautiful sculptures and objects that are not just tactile, but also experimenting with technique in fascinating ways.
I think my favourites are from the ‘Aosta’ series, that seem to be almost floating. And I love this wonderful touch of unexpected colour that is happening on the top, with the gold. I’m also interested that she was having this dialogue with Hindu culture and with India, and the way that she was absorbing elements of their cultural heritage in a very modern and also minimal way.
For example, in the phallic shape of sculptures such as Black Grain (2010). This shape is called Lingam, and it is used throughout India and across the Southeast Asian subcontinent for millennia, to represent the power of Shiva, creator and destroyer of the universe, who is represented as male.
You also find this Hindu influence in how de Santillana has treated the glass, which is both transparent and obscuring at the same time. Like in the piece called 3 Eyed Lateral (2010). Many of her works are about obscuring what's within.
She was able to create these effects because of that experience in her grandfather’s foundry. Green Eye (2010) is a wonderful example. You can see the frit metal powder, which is very hard to control.
This piece Untitled (Partition) (2005) seems so dark but is actually a brilliant magenta, red colour when you shine a light through it. I assume that if this is placed in front of the window at a particular light, you will see the red colour, as if creating a moment of enlightenment in your own home.
De Santillana is a really inspirational figure. She eventually became the director of the Venini foundry, which was a male-dominated and highly exclusive industry in Venice. She then started a new company as artistic director, making works of glass for lighting or vessels in different colours and very beautiful forms.
I'm a huge supporter of women artists via my label, so actually seeing and discovering another female who has managed to elevate their art form. It's really wonderful. That's why Frieze is here, right? Particularly Frieze Masters – my favourite place.
As told to Nora Foster
About Roksanda Ilinčić
Roksanda Ilinčić is a fashion designer based in London and the founder of the label ROKSANDA.
Further Information
Explore Ippodo gallery’s solo presentation of Laura de Santillana at Frieze Masters (stand R04) and on Frieze Viewing Room here.
Frieze London and Frieze Masters, The Regent’s Park, 15 – 19 October 2025.
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