The September issue of frieze considers the role of food – aesthetically, sensorially, politically – in contemporary culture, and the human and environmental costs of its cultivation and supply. Writers Chloe Aridjis, Fernando A. Flores, Diana Hamilton, Alexandra Kleeman and Madeleine Thien reflect on our relationship with food through the five senses. Nine contemporary artists, including Olafur Eliasson, Rirkrit Tiravanija, Otobong Nkanga and Heather Phillipson have produced new ‘recipes’ for our cookbook. And Jane Black profiles artist duo Cooking Sections and their long-term investigations into the ethical and political systems that underpin what and how we eat.
Plus, 41 reviews from around the world, including two major exhibitions by the pioneering German artist Rebecca Horn at Centre Pompidou-Metz, France, and Museum Tinguely, Switzerland, and Luc Tuymans’s four-decade retrospective in Venice. And answering our questionnaire is Allen Ruppersberg, whose conceptual restaurant, Al’s Café (1969), served such delicacies as ‘three rocks with crumpled paper wad’ and ‘simulated burned pine needles à la Johnny Cash.’
Cover image: Christopher Knowles, Cheddar House and Bacon Hamburger (detail), 2019, marker on two sheets of paper, 22 x 28 cm. Courtesy: the artist and Gavin Brown’s enterprise, New York